Alma Retreat: Desert Wellness Camp Changing The UAE's Reputation

Have you ever thought of finding a boutique hotel in Dubai?

Instead, you get polished international chains, albeit with a nod, subtle or otherwise, to the UAE's bedouin heritage. There are many intricately carved dark wood furniture and plush tented canopies. Desert retreats come with private pools, spas, and services, so after a while, there is a danger that you may need to remember how to pour a drink or open your curtains. But where is it?

Which is where Ras al-Khaimah comes in. The northernmost emirate is building a reputation as an adventure travel destination. The new Alma Retreat is trying to fill the gap for those looking to get closer to nature. Guests stay in small but comfy cabins in RAK's dunes. They can opt into a diverse programme of activities, including yoga, fitness classes, meditation, desert walks, art and music sessions and time in the camp's ice bath and sweat lodge.

So far, so very un-UAE. It gets better. The food is prominently vegan, although meat or fish is usually available with your plant-based lunch or dinner. "The concept combines physical, psychological, and emotional health," Sarah Arnold said. "We want to provide something that helps guesses feel more balanced, detach themselves from their looks, nurture their soul, and be happy with who they are".

Originally from Germany, Sarah started the retreat after feeling burnt out by her demanding job as an IT strategist in Dubai. Having been to retreats in India and Sri Lanka, on her return, she felt the UAE was screaming for something the same.

She settled on less developed, less glitzy RAK, a 45-minute drive from Dubai. Alma was soft-launched with a tester season in February 2017. It didn't go smoothly; for starters, the tenets were not waterproof, but the kinks have been smoothed for this, the official opening season. Alma is a stop-off after a hectic, boozy Christmas break in Australia. One that worked its magic immediately, too.

It looks out onto dunes studded with shrubs and the occasional tree. The vibe they aim for says Sarah is a simplistic luxury, and they have it spot-on. Originally from Germany, Sarah started the retreat after feeling burnt out from her demanding job as an IT strategist in Dubai. Having been to retreats in India and Sri Lanka, on return, she felt the UAE was screaming for something similar. She settled on less developed, less glitzy RAK, a 45-minute drive from Dubai. Alma was soft-launched with a tester season in February 2017. It didn't go smoothly for starters; the tents were not waterproof, but the kinks have been smoothed for the official opening season.

The 15 cabins' turquoise and white frontage contrasts with the traditional darker hues of the decor at the neighbouring Bedouin Oasis camp. That one is a setup aimed at providing time-poor tourists with an authentic desert experience and giving them a crash course in the culture via belly dancers and bizarrely dodgy Europop speakers. So, no, this is not in the middle of nowhere, but the noise was less during my visit. Not least when sitting on the low sofa-style seating outside my cabin, looking out onto the dunes. It was an excellent spot for stargazing. Inside the cabins, white bedding continents the zen theme, and memory foam mattresses are a cut above your average camp bed. Bedouin-inspired touches such as the understand bed canopy and intricately patterned electric lamp add a little luxury, and while there is no Wi-Fi, those who cannot face a digital detox can charge their tech. Every cabin has a roofless but entirely private bathroom at the back. The water isn't heated, but showers, even in January, are warm.

A workout and yoga area with a canopy to exercise without heatstroke was under construction during the visit, but the winter sun didn't cause any problems. With low-lying seating and wooden tables on bedouin-patterned rugs, the communal area has the vibe of an upmarket hostel. The Yoga classes take place twice a day. Alma has a roster of instructors, and Serbian native Eva was our teacher. Our group consisted of people with mixed abilities, from novices to years-long devotees. The teachers will tailor sessions per the group's needs to deal with that. My classes were variations of Ashtanga; Eva encouraged the more experienced to try trickier poses and gave anyone struggling easy-to-follow tips. Alma's USP is flexibility; instructors are there on one during a stay, and you can opt out of sessions as and when you like. But Sarah says that even guests who intend to relax are satisfied with the camaraderie of following the group schedule. Despite preconceptions that wellness retreats tend to be female last season.

The most crucial aspect of Alma is its food. "Too much is imported in the UAE," says Sarah, who grew up on a farm and likes to support local producers. So here, the menu is the work of local caterers, emphasising vegan dishes made from locally sourced ingredients; think pumpkin with chickpea curry, coconut cauliflower rice, and red lentil shepherd's pie. It is a word away from a Dubai buffet. Booze is off the menu at the Alma, and guests are encouraged to choose from herbal teas. We were offered a caffeine fix at breakfast in bulletproof coffee: coffee, butter, and coconut oil that can aid with energy and cognitive function. Anyone who gets peckish during the day can snack on rice cakes and butter or fruit.

In the cool desert evenings, the sweat lodge was an inviting addition. A take on a Native American ritual, it is a spiritual sauna experience warmed by fire-heated stones to purify the mind, body, and soul. Extreme versions involve intense meditation ceremonies lasting for several hours, though this is a lighter experience. Having had my spiritual fill for the day, I felt it was more of a place to warm up and relax before bed.

Travel essentials

Getting there

Emirates flies to Dubai from Heathrow, Gatwick, Manchester, Birmingham, Newcastle, and Glasglow for 323 pounds. Alam Retreat is a 45-minute drive from the airport.

Staying there

Alma Retreat has cabins that cost 190 pounds per person on an entire board.

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